Only thing that comes to mind is no overlap between intake & exhaust valves. Not sure why but didn’t need to use exhaust tip plugs I made cause air was not exiting the exhaust. You are now “in Theory” ready to pressurize the whole intake & exhaust system from the air inlet to exhaust tips. Set the air pressure regulator to ZERO and connect air hose to cap fitting. **If running OEM crankcase venting system you must Plug the rear air intake tube at the PCV return tube heater element**-edit on 8/25/11 Install plain PVC cap in the F tube and the other cap w/ air fitting into the R tube and tighten hose clamps. Remove the DCI’s (or air filter box) to access the 2-1/4” accordion intake tubes.
Get front wheels off the ground – ramps, jack stands or lift Make it smoothed.ĭrill & tap 1 cap to install air fitting. Remove any bumps (injection molding gates) on the OD of each cap w/ a file (if necessary, depending on mfg.). (1) – ¼” NPT male hose fitting ($0.25 Harbor Freight).Very quiet garage to listen for leaks – beware of neighbors watering the lawn.Compressor w/ regulator, GOOD pressure gauge, hose.So after playing with all the new gadgets I wanted to test the system w/o removing any parts that are exposed to boost pressure. OK, I had already made several fittings to tap into, plug and pressurize sections of the OEM intake system.Īfter removing sections of the intake system and checking them independently, it was obvious they could leak when they were put back together. You’re not done till the 30FF’s stop popping up. Just remember that there can be more than 1 source for the 30FF.
You can start with the tests you already have the tools or time for and stop if you are lucky enough to detect & fix the problem. The sequence of the tests is not so important. Turbo compressor (COOL side) to intake manifold/head interface.Ģ. Since 30FF can be from a leak in the pressurized section of the intake track and/or the turbo just isn’t putting out enough, I broke this up into 2 areas:ġ. Spent a lot of time the past week trying to diagnose a 30FF. We decided to share this great DIY on boost leak testing that was contributed to the N54 community a long while back and is still very useful for those running into issues with underboost codes, limp mode due to a boost leak in their charge piping.
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